Intentions_ Unit evaluation

I chose the Mobile Habitats brief which I have found challenging but really interesting. I decided to work straight into an A3 sketchbook, drawing on a larger scale and with different media, continuing the more experimental approach to drawing I had done over the summer. I found the 3D nature of the visual research and idea generation I was introduced to in this unit exciting as it was different to anything I had done before. I found it to suit my way of thinking and will continue to work in this way in future projects. What I feel is slightly lacking in my research is primary sources and photographs, I would have liked to have had a greater variety to work from.

Starting to sample I tried out lots of different ideas and techniques, using what I learnt last year and this term and really pushing what I could do with them. I considered carefully my yarn choice to reflect the materiality of my research and concept. What I need to work on is using my sketchbook more throughout the unit to plan samples and develop ideas, this will help to make the most of my knitting time.

One of the techniques I explored the most was e-wrapping. I used it in different and new ways to create structure and weight and bring colour into my samples. Sourcing and experimenting with different materials was successful in getting different structural qualities. I found leather cording, wire, chenille and viscose tape yarn all worked well.

I also developed my ability in shaping and 3D structural knitting. Following a sock making workshop I experimented with different ways of using partial knit and increasing/decreasing, my aim was to create 3D origami style knits that reflected my visual research. I spent quite a long time figuring out the best way to do this and some of the time I wasn't working with the material very well. I got there in the end though and the picture below shows one of my final samples which I think has a nice balance of hard and soft lines and could be extended and developed in many ways. I imagine the joins could become the seams of a sculptural garment.

During this unit we have also had workshops to get to grips with the Dubied machines. I feel I managed to grasp the techniques and found the ripple structure fitted well with my project work so experimented with this a bit more. I like the professional, more robust feel the Dubied samples have and am looking forward to learning more in the next unit.

It took a while to get the right proportion and combination of colours, its something I have often struggled with. Doing yarn wraps from images and drawings and planning out how to apply these in a knit helps so I need to make sure I do more of this. My use of colour has progressed though, becoming bolder and more exciting. Dyeing my own yarn is something I would like do more of in the next unit as  it allows for more control over the visual outcome.

My context and concept have intertwined in this unit. I looked a lot at cocoons, shells and pods in my research- "mobile habitats" for creatures and so began to think about wearable, mobile habitats that could be created for people. I have found a number of designers that are working in interesting ways, I particularly like the idea of an adaptable garment that can be worn in different ways. Below is the "Blankoat", a knitted coat that doubles as a blanket, by Icelandic designer Sruli Recht.

http://store.srulirecht.com/collections/category/products/blankoat-is-114

The small scale of my samples would suggest sections of garments, where structure is desired for shape or movement perhaps. The context for my work is something to explore more in the next unit.

Overall I feel I have progressed in this unit, developing skills and ideas. I have enjoyed being much more experimental with knit and having the time to pursue and resolve an idea. There is still a lot more I want to explore though, I am intrigued by using specialist yarns and will defiantly look at sourcing some of my own yarn to use in the next unit. I would also like to try some different techniques that I didn't get the chance to in this unit. 

Refinement_ week seven

I have started some of my final samples this week, picking out the best qualities of my samples, combining ideas and scaling up. I found it helpful to layout all my samples to do this, seeing what works best together and what's missing. After the tutorial I felt confident to get on but have also used this week to plan and test out ideas for other outcomes.

This is a larger and more exaggerated version of one of my samples. I added the lace holes into the hooked up sections as I wanted an extra dimension to the sample. It was a bit of a risk as I wasn't sure how it would turn out, I feel it is quite unusual looking but does reflect my visual research. I think this design would make really interesting sections of a garment, perhaps the sleeves.

I developed the "shell" sample, this time using a plain background and playing with the scale of the curls. I like the more organic and random nature it has, although It might have been interesting to combine it with other techniques.

I have also been thinking more about context. I had in my mind a fashion context from the beginning as my concept is about intimate habitats relating to the body. I really like the idea of cocoon- like garments that are adaptable and enveloping such as these by Issey Miyake.

 (cocoon coat, 1976)

(spring/summer, 1985)

I have been trying to think carefully about the colour balance across my samples so that they compliment each other but are not all the same; planning out where to apply colour in my samples to accentuate the shape and detail.

Development_ week six

During this weeks tutorial we discussed ways to develop my samples. My work contains a lot of diamond and hexagon shapes which I could make more interesting by playing with the scale and using my drawings to consider composition. I don't want all my samples to look to regular and constrained.

I also felt I needed to refresh some of my ideas so I went back to earlier research to pick out qualities to work with and make sure I am communicating what's in my sketchbook.

This sample is inspired by seed pods, I like the rhythm in the repeat and I think my dip dyed yarn works well in the small bursts. I had envisaged this to be more exaggerated, re- doing this, playing with the scale will make a bigger impact.

The idea for this came from a drawing of shells I did, with cut and curled paper. I have been trying to recreate it with knit and think I have finally found a way to reflect the qualities; by knitting sections on hold then casting off and joining them into the main knit. I want to explore scale and yarn choice here to refine the idea.

I combined e-wrapping with ladders in this sample to increase the contrast between weight. Using a paper yarn also gave the piece structure, I tried to create a sense of movement with the colour up the sample. I think with a bit more development, this would make a good final sample.

I am still working on my colour in order to connect my samples so that they work together as a collection. I need to think about where to apply colour in each sample to compliment the shapes and detail. Going into next week I feel I have a variety of ideas to start developing into a final collection and will work on combining and refining them.

Further experimentation_ week five

This week I have tried to be more ambitious with technique and scale. I have continued to focus on structure and shape in my work, reflecting my drawings and photographs. During the tutorial, Laura advised me on considering colour proportion more carefully so I have done a series of yarn wraps to create interesting combinations from my visual research. 

In this sample I wanted to create a sense of space and connection. I think the laddering technique has potential and combining this with e-wrapped sections would increase the contrast in density even more.

I like the shape and movement of the yarn in this e-wrapped sample, which reflects some of the cocoon shapes I have been looking at; it just needs to be bigger.

Here I used the weaving in technique on a subtly ribbed background. I quite like the linear aspect that occurs in both directions; I think this simpler, regular arrangement will sit well alongside some of my more complex samples and provide a nice juxtaposition. 

I also dip dyed some yarns myself to use. I chose a mercerised cotton and a chunkier wool as I wanted to create a bright, shiny version and one with a matt effect. I am quite pleased with the results, it will mean I can achieve more subtle colour changes; although the wool didn't take up the dye as well as I had hoped. 

I experimented with bondawebbing some copper foil and suede fabric to sections of the wool. The copper foil was more successful and has created a nice textured yarn which I can use for e wrapping.