Intentions_ Unit evaluation

I chose the Mobile Habitats brief which I have found challenging but really interesting. I decided to work straight into an A3 sketchbook, drawing on a larger scale and with different media, continuing the more experimental approach to drawing I had done over the summer. I found the 3D nature of the visual research and idea generation I was introduced to in this unit exciting as it was different to anything I had done before. I found it to suit my way of thinking and will continue to work in this way in future projects. What I feel is slightly lacking in my research is primary sources and photographs, I would have liked to have had a greater variety to work from.

Starting to sample I tried out lots of different ideas and techniques, using what I learnt last year and this term and really pushing what I could do with them. I considered carefully my yarn choice to reflect the materiality of my research and concept. What I need to work on is using my sketchbook more throughout the unit to plan samples and develop ideas, this will help to make the most of my knitting time.

One of the techniques I explored the most was e-wrapping. I used it in different and new ways to create structure and weight and bring colour into my samples. Sourcing and experimenting with different materials was successful in getting different structural qualities. I found leather cording, wire, chenille and viscose tape yarn all worked well.

I also developed my ability in shaping and 3D structural knitting. Following a sock making workshop I experimented with different ways of using partial knit and increasing/decreasing, my aim was to create 3D origami style knits that reflected my visual research. I spent quite a long time figuring out the best way to do this and some of the time I wasn't working with the material very well. I got there in the end though and the picture below shows one of my final samples which I think has a nice balance of hard and soft lines and could be extended and developed in many ways. I imagine the joins could become the seams of a sculptural garment.

During this unit we have also had workshops to get to grips with the Dubied machines. I feel I managed to grasp the techniques and found the ripple structure fitted well with my project work so experimented with this a bit more. I like the professional, more robust feel the Dubied samples have and am looking forward to learning more in the next unit.

It took a while to get the right proportion and combination of colours, its something I have often struggled with. Doing yarn wraps from images and drawings and planning out how to apply these in a knit helps so I need to make sure I do more of this. My use of colour has progressed though, becoming bolder and more exciting. Dyeing my own yarn is something I would like do more of in the next unit as  it allows for more control over the visual outcome.

My context and concept have intertwined in this unit. I looked a lot at cocoons, shells and pods in my research- "mobile habitats" for creatures and so began to think about wearable, mobile habitats that could be created for people. I have found a number of designers that are working in interesting ways, I particularly like the idea of an adaptable garment that can be worn in different ways. Below is the "Blankoat", a knitted coat that doubles as a blanket, by Icelandic designer Sruli Recht.

http://store.srulirecht.com/collections/category/products/blankoat-is-114

The small scale of my samples would suggest sections of garments, where structure is desired for shape or movement perhaps. The context for my work is something to explore more in the next unit.

Overall I feel I have progressed in this unit, developing skills and ideas. I have enjoyed being much more experimental with knit and having the time to pursue and resolve an idea. There is still a lot more I want to explore though, I am intrigued by using specialist yarns and will defiantly look at sourcing some of my own yarn to use in the next unit. I would also like to try some different techniques that I didn't get the chance to in this unit. 

Refinement_ week seven

I have started some of my final samples this week, picking out the best qualities of my samples, combining ideas and scaling up. I found it helpful to layout all my samples to do this, seeing what works best together and what's missing. After the tutorial I felt confident to get on but have also used this week to plan and test out ideas for other outcomes.

This is a larger and more exaggerated version of one of my samples. I added the lace holes into the hooked up sections as I wanted an extra dimension to the sample. It was a bit of a risk as I wasn't sure how it would turn out, I feel it is quite unusual looking but does reflect my visual research. I think this design would make really interesting sections of a garment, perhaps the sleeves.

I developed the "shell" sample, this time using a plain background and playing with the scale of the curls. I like the more organic and random nature it has, although It might have been interesting to combine it with other techniques.

I have also been thinking more about context. I had in my mind a fashion context from the beginning as my concept is about intimate habitats relating to the body. I really like the idea of cocoon- like garments that are adaptable and enveloping such as these by Issey Miyake.

 (cocoon coat, 1976)

(spring/summer, 1985)

I have been trying to think carefully about the colour balance across my samples so that they compliment each other but are not all the same; planning out where to apply colour in my samples to accentuate the shape and detail.

Development_ week six

During this weeks tutorial we discussed ways to develop my samples. My work contains a lot of diamond and hexagon shapes which I could make more interesting by playing with the scale and using my drawings to consider composition. I don't want all my samples to look to regular and constrained.

I also felt I needed to refresh some of my ideas so I went back to earlier research to pick out qualities to work with and make sure I am communicating what's in my sketchbook.

This sample is inspired by seed pods, I like the rhythm in the repeat and I think my dip dyed yarn works well in the small bursts. I had envisaged this to be more exaggerated, re- doing this, playing with the scale will make a bigger impact.

The idea for this came from a drawing of shells I did, with cut and curled paper. I have been trying to recreate it with knit and think I have finally found a way to reflect the qualities; by knitting sections on hold then casting off and joining them into the main knit. I want to explore scale and yarn choice here to refine the idea.

I combined e-wrapping with ladders in this sample to increase the contrast between weight. Using a paper yarn also gave the piece structure, I tried to create a sense of movement with the colour up the sample. I think with a bit more development, this would make a good final sample.

I am still working on my colour in order to connect my samples so that they work together as a collection. I need to think about where to apply colour in each sample to compliment the shapes and detail. Going into next week I feel I have a variety of ideas to start developing into a final collection and will work on combining and refining them.

Further experimentation_ week five

This week I have tried to be more ambitious with technique and scale. I have continued to focus on structure and shape in my work, reflecting my drawings and photographs. During the tutorial, Laura advised me on considering colour proportion more carefully so I have done a series of yarn wraps to create interesting combinations from my visual research. 

In this sample I wanted to create a sense of space and connection. I think the laddering technique has potential and combining this with e-wrapped sections would increase the contrast in density even more.

I like the shape and movement of the yarn in this e-wrapped sample, which reflects some of the cocoon shapes I have been looking at; it just needs to be bigger.

Here I used the weaving in technique on a subtly ribbed background. I quite like the linear aspect that occurs in both directions; I think this simpler, regular arrangement will sit well alongside some of my more complex samples and provide a nice juxtaposition. 

I also dip dyed some yarns myself to use. I chose a mercerised cotton and a chunkier wool as I wanted to create a bright, shiny version and one with a matt effect. I am quite pleased with the results, it will mean I can achieve more subtle colour changes; although the wool didn't take up the dye as well as I had hoped. 

I experimented with bondawebbing some copper foil and suede fabric to sections of the wool. The copper foil was more successful and has created a nice textured yarn which I can use for e wrapping.

Experimentation_ week four

The week began with a group tutorial where we discussed different techniques I could try to reflect my visual research.

I have been trying to achieve a 3D effect in my knit. Laura suggested knitting sections then joining them together to reflect some of the origami structures from my sketchbook. I experimented with different ways of doing this with varying degrees of success.....

I used a partial knit technique in the sample above, it didn't really work though, the shapes are too floppy and rounded.

This one was more successful, I knitted a strip of hexagons and linked them together with copper wire. It has a nice ripple effect; increasing the scale would create an interesting surface.  

We have also learnt a new technique of "weaving in" on the domestic machines, which I have tried to utilise to incorporate sections of rigidity in my samples.

( Woven- in leather strips, cotton background)

I like that you can see the individual stitches against the leather strips, I could experiment with making different shapes and patterns.

Here I wove in copper wire in order to manipulate the finished sample and create a more 3D structure. I quite like the juxtaposition between the open knit and the heavy embroidered knots, This has a more organic feel to it, I could perhaps combine this with the more geometric shapes.

I am pleased that I have generated several starting points to develop and expand. I think it would help to dissect my drawings more, re reviewing them to tease out qualities to bring into my samples.

PDP tutorial_ week three

This week I have moved into my specialism- knit. I had a positive PDP tutorial at the beginning of the week where we discussed the project and what I need to be working on.
I had a lot of ideas to bring to the tutorial but found it difficult to sum up what my concept is, so I have reviewed my research and tried to pin point what its all about.
I would describe my project as_ inspired by organisms within nature that form their own habitats; with a focus on developing fabrics or garments that are flexible, expandable and sensitive. I have found it helpful to gather some key images on pinterest to visualise my ideas and act as a reference for myself throughout the unit.

http://uk.pinterest.com/bphippswardle/mobile-habitats/

The materials I use are a key component in this project, as I am looking at texture and surface a lot. I want to really push what I can use and knit with, e.g: leather, silk, paper yarns, copper wire and potentially explore coating and dying my own yarns.

With my tutor, Laura we discussed my use of colour and how the fibre/yarn choice affects this. I have continued making yarn wraps and colour studies, mixing tones and brights to create an exciting palette.

I have began to knit small samples on the domestic knitting machines, mostly experimenting with yarn and colour combinations.

( viscose/ wool)

I wanted to see the effect of using very different yarn types and used the technique of 'hooking up' to add some texture.

Here I was exploring colour proportion and E-wrapped in some leather strips, which have made intriguing, embellishment like sections.

This is a sample of hand knitted copper wire layered over some machine knitting, the contrast between the soft yarn and hard, clean wire is really nice; I will defiantly think about different ways of incorporating metallics in my work. 

Visual research_ week two

Continuing my visual research, I have started to develop my ideas, working with different materials in a 3D way.  A book called collapsibles gave me some ideas for different mechanisms and ways to manipulate materials so I have have been experimenting with folding, pleating and curling. Following another group tutorial I have also begun to consider what kind of materials and colours to use in order to reflect my visual research. Below is a maquette for a fabric that could form different shapes.

I used a fine mesh and geometric shapes to achieve the contrast in density and materiality I found In my visual research. The look is rough but I think the idea has potential to keep exploring.

These are a development on the flexible/ folded fabric, I wanted to create something with greater rigidity. I imagine many more of them joined together to create a shell-like structure.

(magnetic curtain_ Florian Krautli)

The above image is work by Swiss designer Florian Krautli, he has created a flexible curtain that can be manipulated using the magnets embedded within it. I love the way it is interactive and can be adapted to meet the users needs. I would like to incorporate this idea into my own work, potentially using a similar technique with knit.



I started out working with quite a variety of colours taken from my inspirations but now need to define a colour palette to use for the rest of the project. I have picked out some of my favourite colour ways and done some yarn wrappings to generate ideas. I like the contrast between bright colours and muted tones but need to work a bit more to create a dynamic selection of colours and materials. Overall I feel I have progressed this week but need to bring my ideas together to create a clearer concept and move forward into the sampling stage.

Visual research_week one

"Mobile Habitats" is the visual research brief that I chose. I liked the experimental, 3D approach outlined in the brief and felt the idea of habitats was a good continuation of some of my summer work (mostly inspired by my surrounding, natural environment).

What came to mind when thinking of 'Mobile habitats' were shells and cocoons, seed pods and then tents and hammocks; portable habitats that relate to the body.

One of the first tasks was to "explore the idea of habitats in relation to inside/outside."
I thought of how a chameleon changes colour, adapting to and interacting with its surroundings….

(ink, tracing paper and pastel rubbing)

I like the layering in the drawing above as it gives it a reptilian quality. My aim was to capture the changing colours of the chameleon I observed; I think I could work on making the colours more sensitive and refined.

(ink, pencil and paper)

This drawing was inspired by the contrast in surface between the inside and outside of shells. Cutting and folding the paper also gave me the idea of how you could turn something 2D into 3D, a vessel or habitat.

Following a review of our drawings with our tutor I started to work in a more 3D way, considering both shape and surface. I compiled a list of keywords, relating to mobile habitats to start to generate ideas for potential outcomes/ solutions.

Here I cut up and manipulated a copy of the chameleon drawing to explore the idea of an expanding/ evolving drawing.

(photocopy- paper and ink)

Working in this more abstract manner from the keywords is quite new for me but I have found it exciting and am pleased with some of the outcomes. The drawing above has a hard, protective quality to it, like that of a tortoise shell.

I will continue to develop and refine the techniques I am using and experiment with a wider range of materials and surfaces for the next week of visual research.

Inspirations workshop_ Reflection

Today we started the new year with a group critique session of our summer work in which we each made a small presentation of our sketchbooks and then gave feedback to one another. I found the session helpful and got some positive feedback which was encouraging as I wasn't completely confident about the work I had done over summer.

My mark making and more detailed studies were particularly successful. I was really taken with the variety and delicateness of wild grasses and experimented with a range of media to capture their qualities.

(Ink on scratchboard)

(mark making with grasses, ink)

My sketchbook was mostly inspired by the natural environment but with quite a bright and vibrant colour palette, the group picked up on this contrast (which I hadn't previously given much thought to) and suggested it as something to run with and develop.

(Ink on watercolour paper)

Areas to improve on are to use a wider range of media and consider the surfaces I am working on to. The group also suggested to research more creative practitioners that work in a similar way to how I do.

                        

(oil bar and chalk)

This is one of my less successful drawings, the media I chose didn't allow for the detailed marks I was trying to capture; a bit more consideration of materials is needed. 

I can take these ideas and reflections into the visual research for the new unit, intentions. 

   

Influences_ part two

Wool and the Gang is a cooperative knitwear company/ fashion movement. The garments are all knitted by hand, either by yourself (you buy the yarn and pattern) or by "the gang"; there is no large scale production and different designers collaborate on designs with them. I really like this approach to fashion, its very interactive and encourages people to get knitting and think about how their clothes are made.

(Giles X wool and the gang hats)

https://www.woolandthegang.com/our-story

In the Wool Shed produces hand dyed yarn from British wool, using natural dyes. Emma Price's workshop is based on the farm in Warwickshire where she runs workshops in spinning and natural dyeing. I visited her during the Warwickshire open studios and was really inspired by her work. The yarns have a lovely rich colour which changes subtly in different lights and each batch comes out a bit differently due to the unpredictable nature of the natural dyes. This process gives unique and interesting qualities that couldn't be achieved with conventional methods.

(fingerless gloves knitted in indigo dyed yarn from 'in the wool shed')

I also had a spinning workshop with her which has given me ideas for a whole other side of textiles to experiment with. I really enjoyed the experience of creating my own yarn and the possibilities of fibre and colour combinations are incredibly exciting.

(examples of my hand spinning)

http://www.inthewoolshed.com

Johan Ku. This Taiwanese designer uses a self developed yarn that glows in the dark!! I'm interested to find out more about his work, the innovative design and use of materials is really intriguing and is something I would love to explore myself.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G-me652rGnU

Natsai Audrey is a designer I stumbled across whilst on the Inspirational Design blog (thanks Julie). I am particularly in awe of her "Faber Futures: The Fold" series, a collection of stunning silk scarves patterned by living bacteria. Natsai is another original thinking designer, and like her and Johan Ku I aspire to push the boudoirs with my work as to what can be achieved.

http://www.natsaiaudrey.co.uk/FABER-FUTURES-The-Fold

Shauna Richardson. I have become much more interested by large installations and community projects this summer, leaving me slightly torn as to what I want to be doing. I like the subversive nature of Richardson's work and The Lion Heart project is particularly remarkable and audacious, taking two years and 36 miles of wool to crochet. I didn't see them when they toured the country as part of the cultural olympiad but I wish I had.

http://www.lionheartproject.com/welcome/

On a similar note I have come across several "guerrilla" knitting installations this summer. I have no idea who they are by (I think thats the point) but I think they are quite inspiring. It would be new territory for me but I love the idea of creating something for everyone to see and using textiles to make a statement.

 ("yarn bombing" in Geneva)

(A knitted bicycle as part of Market Harborough Arts Fresco)

Influences_ part one

Rebecca Louise Law is a London based artist who works with dried flowers to create installations and compositions. I spotted a curtain of flowers in the window of her shop/ studio on Columbia road and was drawn in for a closer look. Rebecca L.L has worked on many commissions for various fashion houses and events, her larger scale installations have a spectacular impact. I admire her ambitious use of materials and I really like the idea of working with flowers and natural objects.

http://www.rebeccalouiselaw.com

Ibrahim El- Salahi is a Sudanese artist who I first came across last summer at a retrospective of his work at the Tate Modern. He uses inks and watercolour a lot, creating lively and expressive marks in his work, which I think would translate well into textiles. I have been experimenting with different methods of using inks and watercolour, inspired by Salahi. 

http://ibrahimsalahi.com/project/tate-modern-exhibition/

Paul Cummins. Whilst in London I went to see the poppy installation, under construction at the Tower of London, I found the impact of it quite moving, the deep red colour is just right, it really is like a sea of blood. I think this is a very intelligent project. Each crafted poppy is fragile and unique and in multiple they are visually stunning. 

It was fascinating to watch the team of volunteers "planting" the poppies, I think there is something special about a collective effort and I look forward to seeing the end result. 

http://www.paulcumminsceramics.com

Henri Matisee. Another source of inspiration from my trip to London was the Matisee cut-outs at the Tate. I was pleasantly surprised at the complexity and diversity that Matisee achieved with the limited materials of paper and scissors. I was particularly struck by this study for a stained glass window, "The Bees". It made me think more about abstraction, by refining the subject and capturing its essence the image can become more powerful, I think and still instantly recognisable. I have explored cut-out forms and silhouettes in my summer drawing. It was also interesting to see the way Matisse worked in his studio, how he pinned the elements of his drawings to the walls and played with the composition.

http://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/henri-matisse-cut-outs